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Usage du caphé, du thé, et du chocolate (1671). Dufour, “from
              the oven”, may be another witty pseudonym (some speculate
              for physician and archeologist Jacob Spon, whom others
              claim was Dufour’s friend), as the drinks were served hot.

              Raw materials from Arabia, America, and Asia thus entered
              the French medical literature as a new drug group. Dufour
              did not have the language of caffeine, but grasped that their
              common denominator is an ability to stimulate and fortify.
              Beyond this shrewd scientific insight into the behavior of
              coffee, chocolate, and tea, the collected works also force the
              idea of cultural comparison. Dufour shows that these widely
              dispersed lands with vastly different climates, flora, fauna,
              peoples, and languages, nevertheless share the cultural
              practice of boiling stimulants for medicinal purposes.


              If the idea of a small world seems obvious now, it was not
              then. Since the Age of Discovery, it had been commonplace
              to depict the world as a wide rectangle with each of the
              Four Continents at an angle: Europe, Africa, the Americas,
              and Asia. Early visual traditions represented peoples of
              these lands racially, painted with different colored skin, or
              allegorically, flanked with elephants, hunting bows,
              and parasols. A frontispiece added to Dufour’s 1685 edition
              participates in the visual tradition of the continents but does
              not follow the same logic of depicting difference. Instead,
              it follows the logic of the treatise: to relate the global areas
              associated with coffee, tea, and chocolate through their
              similar habits. Accordingly, the frontispiece pictures men who
              are racialized and dressed to evoke the Middle East, Asia,
              and Mesoamerica sitting in a room around a table enjoying a
              drink together. The world suddenly looked quite small.


              The Middle Eastern figure, in Ottoman dress, wears a
              decorated turban and beard; the Chinese figure balances in
              lotus position under a conical hat, and the Mexican (as Dufour
              identifies him), stands in mid-stride with a bow, wearing only
              feathers and gold. Each of them holds a visibly steaming

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